Review: The Jaffa, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Tel Aviv

Set the scene.
A 13th-century fortress wall, excavated during construction, cuts through The Jaffa’s slick modern lobby. Furniture is mid-century modern; on the wall is one of Damien Hirst’s spin paintings. But this hardly prepares you for the rest of The Jaffa, a one-time convent-hospital could claim to be the world’s most glamorous nunnery; all grand archways, plaster walls, and neo-Roman flourishes, but with modern flourishes. The Chapel, where nuns once worshipped, is now a grand setting for Tel Aviv’s coolest bar, with its soaring vaulted ceilings and stained-glass windows.

What’s the story?
When it was built in the 19th century, Jaffa’s iconic French Hospital was a mix of neo-gothic and neo-Renaissance styles. Now, it’s clearly symbolic of neo-Jaffa, the city’s ancient Arabic district, which grows ever-more hip. The renovation took 10 years of excavation and preservation, overseen by British designer John Pawson and Israeli architect Ramy Gill. They’ve stayed true to the ornate old space, with its Arabic and Roman influences, while turning it into a 120-room hotel filled with mod-cons and cutting-edge art and design, from Hirst to Japanese furniture designer Shiro Kuramata.

What can we expect from the bedrooms?
Rooms are convent-minimal, but stylishly so; the chilly plaster walls and arches offset by chairs by French designer Pierre Paulin. A single panel controls the blinds, lights, and air-conditioning, and there’s just a shower in the Travertine marble bathroom. The minimalism is accented by minimal photographs of trees by Israeli artist Tal Shochat.

How about the food and drink?
For somewhere so of its place and time, the food leans heavily towards New York City, despite being run by local chef Roi Antebi. Brooklyn-ish all-day deli Golda’s serves up bagels and lox, and great coffee.

Anything to say about the service?
Could be improved, but will warm up. The concierge is an authority on genuine cool bars and galleries in Jaffa.

What type of person stays here?
The in-the-know global design crowd (who are the people attracted to Jaffa in the first place). Lots of elegantly maxi-dressed women and men with bare ankles and tortoiseshell glasses.

What’s the neighborhood scene like?
Hip, rapidly gentrifying areas in cities tend to be in formerly unloveable areas: red-light districts, boondocks, actual docks. Jaffa is a hip quarter, but a beautiful one that has a 4,000-year history stretching back beyond The Bible (Jonah, St Peter) and Greek mythology (Perseus, Andromeda), with more Arabic than Jewish residents. The art galleries, boho bars, and chic boutiques are houses in ancient stone structures, which glow with golden light; while the flea markets and Arabic cafés and bakeries are as they’ve been for centuries.

Anything we missed?
The rectangular aquamarine pool pops from the white loungers around it, and the fact that sunscreen is provided is a nice touch. The lobby features sheshbesh boards, the Turkish equivalent of backgammon.

Is it worth it—why?
Like Jaffa itself, it’s a thrilling mix of old and new, which somehow works.